FAQ - Adjustable Levers
Adjustable levers
Q: The levers have been installed, but there seems to be excessive play of the lever in the housing.
A: Oberon Performance’s levers are machined to very close tolerances of the OEM part it is replacing. If the lever is floppy in either the horizontal or vertical plane, then there will be only 2 possible reasons. The first possible reason is the incorrect lever has been fitted and it would be prudent to contact your vendor or Oberon Performance’s customer services for guidance. The second and most likely reason is the hardware from the OEM has not been transferred during installation. There are a variety of fittings like pivot pin bushes/anti rattle shims that need to be removed from the OEM lever and used with the Oberon lever. The installation instructions will make reference to which part numbers are affected.
Q: The lever is installed correctly, but in some positions (usually less than position 4). The start in gear function is lost.
A: Adjusting a lever will affect the distance of the stroke of a lever. It is the laws of physics that simply can’t be undone. By bringing a lever closer to the bar as a starting point, will simply mean it will travel less than a lever that has been let further out, before it makes contact with the handlebar. Additionally, not all micro switches are in the exact same location on the bars and so the same starting position. Therefore, there is no definitive ‘stock’ position to adhere to. Normally position 4 would be the closest to ‘stock’ position but if the micro switch is closer or further from the lever, then the ‘stock’ position will vary on each and every motorcycle. If the feature is lost then simply adjust the lever out to a position where it will engage the switch again. And then resume the desired position once the engine has been started.If it is essential to retain the start in gear function on all lever positions. Then the only thing that can be done is take up the ‘slack’ so to speak. By adding a small shim to the part of the lever (about 0.2-0.4mm/0.007-0.016 inch). This is the only way to compensate for the difference in switch locations and currently it seems to affect about 1% of installations.
Q: The front brake lever has been installed but now the brake light fails to operate when the lever is activated.
A: The only possible reason that has been known to cause this issue is damage to the switch. In the instructions (and video) there is a number of references that it is very easy to damage a part of the brake micro switch if enough care has not been taken prior. Thankfully the damage will not mean the end of the world or expensive to remedy if the desire of not to purchase another switch is a choice made.On the tip or head of the switch, there is a soft rubbery or leathery cap. It is accidently easy to sheer it off if the switch housing has not been sufficiently disassembled to allow the chance to fully survey the installation area. If this information has come too late and the instructions were not followed. Then only by either installing a whole new switch (expensive). Or adding a small shim that is soft but firm to the area of the lever where the two meet. A good weather proof solvent would be advisable.
Q: Lever(s) have been installed and working perfectly but the lever adjuster on one blade is stuck or difficult to turn with ease.
A: In the highly and unlikely event this should occur, then please contact a member of the support team at Oberon: admin@oberon-performance.co.uk you will need to state the model and year of motorcycle as the solution is model dependant and therefore varies.
Q: The clutch lever is behaving very differently in the various positions available. Position 8 is the only position where neutral can be found (as an example).
A: Adjusting a lever will affect the stroke of the lever. A lever that is adjusted or let out further away from the handlebars (such as position 8) will naturally increase the potential amount of cable that will get pulled when pulling the lever in. The lowest position 1 will of course pull far less cable before the lever hits the bars. Resulting in clutch issues as the plates have not been commanded to fully disengage.The amount of ‘play’ a clutch lever should have before the cable is actually being pulled, should be between 0.5mm and 2.5mm (0.019685 inch and 0.0984252 inch). Great care should be taken to ensure the adjustment is no lower than lowest quoted amount. Otherwise, the cable will always be pulling which will result in slippage and of course, clutch plates burning out way before their natural time. There are two types of clutch cable adjustment that Oberon is aware of. In the installation video there is specific references in how to achieve the perfect tension.
Q: On every single web page, Oberon states that the buyer is urged to make contact with Oberon prior to purchase.
A: Over the years there have been a number of regular examples of differences in CVO/SE models having different fitments in different countries. They could be complete coincidences and the bike simply has been fitted with parts that are native to other models. Same with year cross overs. It is not uncommon for a bike to be built in a year but plated a year or two later. When this happens and a fitting has changed from one year to another, then there will be instant fitment issues. As an example, a Road King built in 2016 will have a cable clutch. But if plated a year later and thought of as a 2017 model (Hydraulic clutch) then of course instant fitment problem.Therefore, it is prudent for CVO owners, or anyone that is in doubt, to contact Oberon prior to purchase. Preferably with images of the lever(s) that are to be replaced, removed from the bike so all fitment angles can be inspected. Questions on this matter are more than welcomed or indeed any other matter regarding CVO/SE or any model.